Autumn/Winter 13

Having spent the majority of the recent fashion weeks bed bound with a nasty stomach bug, I have had to have a bit of a late catch-up on all aspects concerning the catwalk. The results of my 'oohing' and 'ahhing' are my various trend moodboards below; granted, they are rather selfishly geared towards my  tastes, but I have at least attempted to categorize my haphazard preferences into definable groups. All in all, A/W 13-14 looks set to be a beautiful, albeit tonally muted one, with Paris Fashion Week predictively and justly  conquering in my opinion. 

I noticed a considerable movement towards simplistic ensembles that were worn with an air of nonchalance whilst still retaining a luxurious quality for the coming Autumn. Pheobe Philo depicted this perfectly at Celine, which sat comfortably between Valentino and Carven in terms of dignified charm. At LFW, both Zoe Jordan and J.J S Lee presented crisply cut collections which contradictorily illustrated that quintessential London cool. 

Leather textures for the coming year look set to be worn with a further sense of ease than that of present, with designer lines including 3.1 Phillip Lim and  T by Alexander Wang being particular forerunners of this. Although Lim's ready-to-wear collection didn't quite have as much impact on me as his gorgeously wearable pre-fall offerings, the designer's signature contemporary cool was certainly in abundance. Similarly to leather, PVC is another fabric clearly progressing from its fetishistic roots; the material is undoubtably staging a comeback in all its 60s glory for Autumn, with Paco Rabanne and Topshop Unique using its shiny advantages excessively. 

The wonders of the two-piece were ascertained through many a collection for A/W. From Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton's jazz age reminiscent designs (Jacobs' directing for both labels was made explicit through their many similarities) to Simone Rocha and J.J S Lee's more contemporary approaches, the suit-skirt was certainly having a 'moment'. 

Another trend I picked up on for next season was a luxe-grunge, glamorous biker esque look. Rodarte's whole collection showcased this, with a Madonna circa Desperately Seeking Susan style being exhibited; I was very happy to see a return for the Mulleavy sisters to the punky essence of Rodarte that I fell irrevocably for way back in 2008 for their Fall collection. Karl Lagerfeld's designs at Chanel reflected similar rebellious notions, with models clad in thigh-high patent leather boots adorned with chains. Olivier Rousteing employed Balmain's signature sense of glam for his collection with  incandescent metallics, whilst Paco Rabanne's use of chainmail brought upon similar sparkling notions. 

Sportswear still looks set to dominate for the coming season in all its minimal, paired down glory. The usual sporty suspects such as Stella McCartney and DKNY delivered excellently on this front, with Miss.Karan making use of the modernist impacts of the texture à la mode, neoprene, in her polished collection. Navy blue tones emerged as a defining shade for the sports luxe set, down and out in Paris and London; designers Christopher Raeburn and Dion Lee incorporated the colour during LFW, whilst both Julien David and Chloe made use of its brooding qualities  during PWF. 

Recent Reads

Thought it was about time I blogged about the beautiful books I was lucky enough to receive from the Madre a while ago. Both had been on my wishlist radar for quite some time, so I was one excitable fashion student upon obtaining them. After having had a lecture from the great Colin McDowell today, the masterful fashion writer's book 'Fashion Today' is another I'm now  intent in reading. Both Colin's passion and grandiose were hugely inspiring to me, hence firmly iterating his god-like status  in my mind along with other fashion journalist icons (Suzy Menkes, Tim Blanks et al. )

The Opening Ceremony book was created in celebration of the ever-innovative store's tenth anniversary, and is equally as inspiring as the label's famous retail spaces. A glossy, hardbacked embodiment of O.C's signature kitsch-like cool, the book was contrived by the store's founders (and fairly recent creative directors of Kenzo) Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Charting the remarkable abundance of Opening Ceremony collaborations, as well as guest snippets from the members of the brand's thriving community such as Rodarte and Alexander Wang, the book is an infinite inspiration source. 

American Vogue creative director Grace Coddington has long been an influence for me; like most fashion enthusiasts, The September Issue was a prominent provocation of this. With this in mind, I was extremely eager to read her memoirs. From the apt tangerine tones of the book's cover to Coddington's wittily candid sketches throughout, the flame-haired tastemaker's memoirs were a visual feast. Her humorous accounts of life at Vogue and her 'journey' preceding this were especially entertaining also; in short, a very readable and engaging must-read.

Magazine Marvels

The impressive array of magazines on offer both at the Berlin tradeshows I visited recently and the city's wondrous 'Do You Read Me' store have resulted in an abundance of interesting reads for me to pour over as of late. I mostly rely on online sources nowadays in order to provide me with up-to-date fashion content; this is sadly due to my rather futile money situation. There is still something about a magazine, however, that enthrals me far more than that of a website. From it's delicately inked paper to it's distinct freshly printed scent, a publication will always have that special physical quality that a website cannot provide. 

A hugely successful online resource for all things street-wear related, here High Snobeity's signature glossiness has been translated to print. Featuring a minimal layout and highly stylized shoots, the site's print offering  is alluringly sharp, whilst still managing to maintain a creative essence. 

The notably contemporary Hypebeast is another go-to online site for instant steet-wear gratification. As a publication, it's signature sense of luxurious simplicity translates excellently, whilst the magazine's ingenious shoots are both original and seamlessly styled. 

I was instantly seduced by Frankie's endearingly quirky cover, consequently leaving Do You Read Me with the magazine happily in hand. Inside, Frankie certainly didn't disappoint; with a focus on low-tech graphical elements such as hand-drawn sketches, the publication radiated a personal feel that made you want to treat it with care and consideration. 

The French publication WAD's forward thinking urban aesthetics immediately captured my attention at Bread & Butter. The magazine's diverse use of casting in it's visionary editorials left me eagerly anticipating  every turn page. The striking albino model to the right in the above image struck me as a reminder of the extent to which British magazines are severely lacking in diversity. 

A Fix of the Flicks

Having recently watched and become enamoured with a few cinema classics, I thought i'd be so kind as to share these with you here...

Betty Blue is a beautiful 1980s french film about a couple's passionate, unpredictable relationship. Beatrice Dalle paints an envyingly dazzling portrait of the wild Betty, whose covetable 50s style wardrobe is worn with typically french nonchalance throughout. Although rather long-winded, the film is full of gorgeously stylish shots; a must see! 

Fifty years on and Jean-Luc Godard's 1960s New Wave cult 'A Woman is a Woman' still seems entirely chic and current. Anna Karina charms as Angela, a french striptease artist and all-round 60s siren, whilst the beautiful Jean-Claude Brialy plays Angela's boyfriend, who is reluctant to have a child with her. The couple's Parisian apartment is a hipster's paradise, filled with fixies and contemporary curio. 

Quadrophenia encapsulates the energy of the mod scene that emerged with bravado during the 60s.  Phil Daniels (Eastenders, anyone?!) plays Jimmy, an angsty teen who, on his sharp Lambretta, escapes his conformist life in search of freedom. The film features a great soundtrack by The Who, as well an appearance from Sting; you couldn't ask for much more, really...

Brands of Berlin

More than a week has passed since returning from the thriving city of Berlin, yet it seems i'm still suffering from a critical case of the cities consequential blues. Embarking to Deutschland on a 'study' trip for my course during the exhilarating period of Berlin Fashion Week, the cities many offerings der mode provided excellent means for absorbing its creative culture. Throughout our trip we visited tradeshows such as Bread & Butter, Premium, Show & Order and Capsule; here I was supplied with useful grounds for the discovery of many previously unheard of brands. Although my eye was mostly fixed on  the impeccably dressed and exceedingly bearded men of Berlin, it did manage to focus upon a few noticeable brands... those of which I have detailed below. 

A Kind of Guise- high quality  minimalist menswear with a focus on detail, for the aforementioned bearded gentleman type. Their simplistic aesthetics translate seamlessly into the brand's website, which features lovely film photography. 

BWGH- 'Brooklyn We Go Hard'; an urban menswear brand that features similar 'quietly classic' aesthetics to A Kind of Guise's designs. Originating from Paris, the label extends beyond clothing to a biannual magazine and events collective. 

Hien Le- Having remained Berlin-based after having launched his independent label in 2010, Hien Le's designs are both elegant and simplistic, featuring discernible sportswear elements; basically everything I love and look for in fashion.

Julian Zigerli- Zigerli's menswear focuses on innovative sportswear influenced constructions, with attention being placed on bursts of colour and outbreaks of humour. Although undeniably fun, his designs are also cleverly ergonomic. 

Libertine-Libertine- effortlessly chic streetwear for the modern man, it was no surprise to me in finding out that Libertine-Libertine were a Danish brand. Their visually innovative lookbooks (above) were a surefire attention grabber. 

Shwood Eyewear- Shwood's unique eyewear instantly caught my eye at Capsule tradeshow. Based in Portland, U.S.A, the labels handcrafted wooden sunglasses  were fashioned from a desire to experiment with design and natural materials. I'm coveting these rounded frames (above)!

Sissi Goetze- In short; Minimal, modern, white, purist and conceptual.  I am unashamed in saying my tastes are slightly predictable at times... 

Sloe Berlin- Producing accessories, bags and limited-edition clothing, Sloe has  nonchalant, understated cool down to a T. I especially loved the muted tones of their lookbook (above), although their past advertisements have had a very Terry Richardson/American Apparel essence to them. 

Studio Laend Phuengkit- Equally as complex as the label's name, S.L.P's designs are both sculptural and conceptual, whilst still managing to retain a sense of purism. Based within the fields of both menswear and womenswear, its clothing promotes an artful construction of urban sophistication. 

Hello 2013

So the new year has already started pretty perfectly for me; Urban Nerds at London Bridge for NYE was worth every guilt-induced penny, many many bangers played in an amazing (if a tad grimy) warehouse location. Lots to look forward to for the coming year, some of which includes hitting Berlin's trade shows, Fashion Week and obligatory club scene in less than 2 weeks time (!!), and extremely exciting internship possibilities come Summer. For now however, i've compiled a list of my favourite songs of 2012; an arduous task considering what an incredible year its been for music on the whole. Yes, my work procrastination has reached new heights. Despite this, i'm hoping you'll love these songs just as much as I do, or at least did before ridiculously overplaying them.

Jai Paul- Jasmine

Frank Ocean- Sweet Life

Robert Glasper Experiment feat. Erykah Badu- Afro Blue

                           

George Fitzgerald- Child

Bondax- Baby I Got That

Burial & Four Tet- Nova

Azealia Banks- 1991

Jessie Ware- Running (Disclosure remix)

Flying Lotus- See Thru To U feat. Erykah Badu

Kendrick Lamar- Swimming Pools (drank)
Kendrick Lamar- The Recipe 

Joy Orbison- Ellipsis

(Click on the links for the music!)

Ice Ice Baby

Icy shades of winter white, masculine tailoring, angora jumpers and beanies,luxurious leather and chunky jewellery are a few things i'm feeling fashion-wise for the arctic conditions in the north as of late. I'm very much looking forward to heading down south come Friday for a few weeks of wine and warmth induced bliss. In terms of christmas wish-lists, shoes are at the top of mine this year; the Yang Li chelsea boots below would make me extremely happy, as would the Nike Roshe Run Trails in all black... a girl can wish!